By Serfronya Wallace

Caring for natural hair requires knowledge. That’s because despite its looks, natural hair is fragile and requires precautions to prevent breakage. Also, it is common for more than one hair texture to grow from the same scalp. So finding products that work for all the textures can be tricky. However, taking the following steps will make hair care more manageable. Read the full story

By Ronnie Williams

Bald Beauties, although you are free of hair, you are not free of maintenance. The scalp is a very sensitive area of skin and should be given extra attention, especially if it will be exposed to the potentially harmful rays of the sun.

First things first, bald heads should be smooth. Razor bumps are unsightly and unhealthy, as they are indicative of bacteria on and inside of the scalp. Treat the head with Tend Skin, or unscented deodorant, which will reduce and prevent razor bumps. To get a smooth shave, always make sure the head is moist or pre-showered. If the hair has been allowed to grow, take it down to a buzz cut with an electric razor or scissors. Exfoliation is the next step. Use your favorite soap or moisturizing body wash with a loofah to gently invigorate the scalp. Rinse well, and coat the head in shaving cream (or hair remover) and shave. Once the shaving is complete, always remember to moisturize. Keeping a bald head moist is essential to keeping it smooth. Vitamins E and A work well in moisturizing. Aloe Vera Gel and Silicone based products act as a shield from the elements and water.

Bald heads should also be protected from extreme heat, cold and direct sunlight.

When going outside with a bare bald head, remember to use a sunscreen with a SPF of at least 25. Bald Guys makes one with a SPF of 30. Remember, the higher the SPF, the more protection from the sun. Stay away from heavy greases and oils while outside in the sun, as they may cause the scalp to overheat and blister, or block the pores and cause bumps.

Washing and conditioning bald heads can be done as often as needed. For dandruff, Denorex or any other specialized shampoo will work. Do NOT skip conditioning. Use a dime sized amount and finger-rub briskly to keep the scalp in tip-top shape.

If you are a wig wearer, always clean the scalp before applying your hairpiece. Protect your scalp with Aloe Vera Gel and use any pre-application products that you choose to keep your scalp healthy. Wig-Caps can also be beneficial. Remove the wig and wash/treat the scalp if you notice any itching or pain.

Many product lines offer products targeted for bald heads. Have fun and explore the possibilities of being hairless.

Photo Credit: Presche

Various transitions from processed to natural hair

By Gail Newbold and edited by Nicole Samson
Are you tired of maintaining your permed or relaxed hair and desire a natural hair do? Well if so, two solutions can help you get that natural hair do without damaging your hair. Going natural, you must realize that in order to begin the process the first thing you must concentrate is on the “new growth” and no more touch ups. Once that is accomplished we have two avenues you may take towards your natural style.

Cut it all off

This is considered a “bold” move for African American women, especially if there is some length to the hair. This is the fastest, easiest option as it requires the fewest amounts of steps and will definitely avoid moments of breakage, especially at the point where the processed hair meets natural hair, or the line of demarcation, which also is the most sensitive to damage.   With this option, a woman can wear what is called a TWA or “Teeny Weeny Afro“.

Extensions

Cornrows, braids, full head sewn in weaves, or wigs are other ways you can prevent getting another touch up and growing out your “new growth”.

What to Do: Once you chose a path

Whichever style you choose for your hair during its transitional period, the most important thing to do is condition the hair. Even though you are no longer applying chemical relaxers, the hair still needs extra moisture and so a deep conditioner once a week is still in order.  Make sure that the conditioner used contains proteins and humectants that reduce dryness. Other ingredients to look for are glycerin, panthenol, and quaternion-22.

What Not To Do

Do not Hot Comb your hair.  Hot combing hair while it is transitioning makes the natural hair you are trying to grow vulnerable and prone to breakage. Another method to avoid is using a number of products that claim to help change your hair back to its “natural” state. These products may leave your hair frizzy, but that’s not necessarily “natural”.  It is not a good idea to put a chemical treatment on top of another chemical treatment. Doing this leads to over processing the hair which only causes further damage to your hair. Over shampooing and slicking your hair back are also culprits to causing damage, especially during the transitional phase. Find a Hair Care Products who is “sympathetic” to the natural hair way of styling and care will be better for you, as some products frown upon natural hair because they believe there are limited styles. And it is always good to ask your stylists or Ask Vissa any questions about how to handle your hair while it’s undergoing this sensitive change, and how to care for it afterwards.

By Ronnie Williams

Heat styling, while it speeds up glam-time and makes our hair gorgeous, can also do some serious damage.

Blow-Drying is one of the most horrible things you can do to your hair. The dry, direct heat removes not only surface water, but the water found inside the cuticle of the hair (water of hydration). Removing this water causes the cuticles to become dry, rigid and ultimately break off. Combing/Brushing during blow-drying intensifies this breakage. If you must blow dry, it is better to point the dryer downwards and lower the heat settings. Purchasing a unit with a “heat blast” option, such as the Tyche Ionic 2000 Turbo, is better than the constant heat.

Flat-Ironing and Curling with hot irons can cause breakage on the ends of hair cuticles. Flat-ironing wet hair causes small steam explosions in the hair follicle, causing hair blisters and breakage along the shaft.

Ceramic and Tourmaline models work better for blow dryers and irons because they aim to minimize the size of the water molecules (blow dryers) giving them less time to work and leaving your hair still hydrated. In curlers, the precise temperatures aid in prevention of burning hair or incorrect usage. Hair sticking to a flat iron/curler is a major problem and is a warning sign to dispose of, or thoroughly clean your tool(s). In ceramic and tourmaline models this is not an issue, although cleaning should not be overlooked.

Protection during heat processes is very important to reduce and prevent excessive breakage. Heat protection sprays help when using hot styling tools. Sprays containing Glycerin and Propylene Glycol, such as Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray, help because they retard water evaporation. Remember your hair needs water in the follicle to stay healthy. For those of us who flat-iron wet hair, you should be looking for Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Polysiloxane Copolymer in your products. This will work better than silicone alone because it will actually prevent the small steam explosions and eliminate blistering and cracking.

Protecting your hair from heat damage can also be done before the styling begins. Use shampoos/conditioners that activate and protect during heat styling, such as Matrix Sleek Look shampoo and conditioner. Conditioners containing centrimonium chloride, such as Sunsilk Heat Defends Cream, can be used either as a pair (with matching shampoo) or with your favorite shampoo.

Bi-monthly protein deep conditioners will also keep hair happy.

As an alternative to heat styling, try wet wraps and/or air drying. If you wish to speed up the process, wet wrap hair and cover with clear wrap. Hair can then be blow dried. Properly wrapping and securing hair at night or while in the house can also preserve hair styles and lessen the need for hot tools.

Use this chart to decide which setting to use for your heat tools.

Use this chart to decide which setting to use for your heat tools

By Ronnie Williams

Conditioners play a large role in restoring and repairing everything from daily wear to problems and unique hair situations. Some of these conditions include dandruff, oily hair, and frizz. If you find yourself just wanting softer hair, or a rejuvenated scalp, a conditioner could be your answer.

Natural Conditioners

(Most of the ingredients you probably already have!)

Ginger Bread Head (Ginger Hot Oil Treatment)
1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon sesame or jojoba oil
*Can be applied before/after shampoo
Leave In: 30 mins – Overnight

REJUVENATION
Green Giant (Avocado/Mayo)
1 small jar of mayonnaisse
1 whole avocado
Leave In: 20 mins – 1 hour

MOISTURE/RESTORATION
X-Factor (Water/Egg/Baby Oil)
1 cup water
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon baby oil
*Beat egg until frothy, add oil, then add water
Leave In: 15 mins – 30 mins

SHINE/BODY
Kiss From A Rose (Rosemary/Olive Oil)
20-30 drops of rosemary Oil
1/2 cup of Extra Virgin olive oil
*Heat olive oil in a canning jar in a pot 1/2 filled with water. Add rosemary oil. Apply to hair and wrap in a towel.
Leave In : 30 mins – 1 hour

THINNING HAIR/DRY OR ITCHY SCALP
SuperWoman (Egg/Coconut Oil/Lemon/Banana/Yogurt)
1 egg white
3-4 tablespoons of coconut oil
1/2  of a lemon (juice only)
1 mashed banana
3-4 tablespoons plain yogurt
Leave In : 30 mins – 1 hour

DRY SCALP/DANDRUFF/SHINE/MOISTURE/BODY/SHINE
Pretty Good Stuff (Olive Oil/Vitamin E/GrapeSeed Oil)
1/2 cup olive oil
5 tablespoons vitamin E oil (or about 30 capsules)
2 tablespoons GrapeSeed Oil
Leave In : 15 mins – 30 mins

MOISTURE/STRENGTH
Dr.FeelGood (Vinegar/Water/Rosemary/Chamomile Tea)
4 cups of hot water
3/4 cup vinegar
1/4 sprig rosemary
1 bag of chamomile tea
*Let tea steep in water and add the rest of the ingredients
Leave In : Rinse/Saturate Well for ab 5-10 mins

TANGLES/KNOTS/SOFTNESS
Tropical Breeze (Avocado/Coconut Milk)
1 avocado
2 cups coconut milk
*Coconut milk should be added until it makes a paste
Leave In : 30 mins

SOFTNESS/MOISTURE
Hair Math
Sage + Olive Oil = Remedy for weak hair
Chamomile + Catnip + Olive Oil = Longer Hair
Burdock Root + Olive Oil = Hair Growth / No More Hair Loss
(Add these to hair between washes or as a conditioner)

**Tips**

Rinsing hair in cold water helps seal your conditioner.

Working baking soda in hair before washing helps dissolve build-up.

Many African-American women are forgoing the hair relaxer and returning to their hair’s natural texture. Why?

To understand this, one must first understand what a hair relaxer is and what it does. It is a chemical that is applied to the hair, left on a set amount of time, and then rinsed out, all in order to straighten naturally kinky hair. The straightening components are either sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide (thus the “lye” versus “no-lye” distinction). This is a permanent process that must be reapplied to the hair’s new growth as it comes in to keep a straight, uniform look.

Although proclaimed as a safe procedure, there are risks involved, especially if the relaxer is left on the hair too long or comes in contact with the skin. Women have been left with scarring from chemical burns when the relaxer was improperly used. There have been cases where the hair follicles were damaged beyond repair; consequently, these areas no longer will grow hair.

But it’s not only damage that is making many black women forego straightening their hair. The reasons are as varied as the women themselves.

Since many women have had their hair straightened from a young age, they may have no recollection what their natural hair looks like. They might be curious to rediscover their roots. Some women grow tired of the constant maintenance required of relaxed hair. On average, the process needs to be applied to the new growth every four to eight weeks. Factor in the time it takes to set relaxed hair on rollers or to blowdry and style and it can be quite time-consuming to keep up.

Still other women are embracing their natural heritage and a natural lifestyle. One of the surest ways to differentiate themselves from others is by wearing their natural hair proudly. Only tightly curled or kinky hair can stand up and out in an Afro.

In the 1960’s and 1970’s, many blacks wore their natural hair in Afros, in part as a spurning of the subjugated way of life they and their ancestors were forced to live. It was a time of racial pride and upheaval. Once the Civil Rights Movement came to an end, many black people who wanted to join corporate America found they had to “assimilate.” To blend in with the powers that be, it was necessary to conform. For women, this most often meant straightening the hair. For men, it was a low haircut.

In the early to mid-1990’s, as black music evolved to include a Neo-soul sound, reminiscent of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s, black style changed as well. Hair began to take a turn back. Braids and dreadlocks (or “locs” as most loc wearers prefer them to be called) became popular. Natural black hair began to be celebrated again.

At the start of a new millennium, more and more women are returning to their natural texture.Unlike the earlier wave of naturals, there are many more options for styling,

Photo Credits:
Model – Megyn Barroner // Photographer – Eric Michael Pearson