What is it?

Ok, for a second imagine your hair is a long chain of protein.  Are you there yet? Good…because that’s essentially what hair is. Keratin, which is the main ingredient in this process, composes about 88% of a hair follicle. Keratin is high in sulphur & the amino acid cystine which is what gives it its strong structural properties. As a matter of fact keratin is found in even stronger parts of anatomy such as horns, hooves, wool, skin & even fingernails.  Contrary to popular belief, this process is non-abrasive as it works with the hair & not against it like a relaxer, which opens & restructures hair follicles.

How is it done?

Firstly, the hair is washed with special shampoos to make it porous so the keratin can better bond with the hair.  The keratin is applied & it fills in defects & fissures in the hair shaft, making it look straighter. Hair is blown dry & a flat iron is used to activate the formaldehyde.

Is this process for me?

Let’s start with some facts. This process is pricey (`$300-400$), and is not one with which you should bargain. The stylist you see for this service should have ample experience & proof of success in this method. The timetable ranges from 1.5 – 5 hours depending on hair length.  In turn it lasts about 2 months in natural hair & 3-4 months in previously straightened hair.  Because it is not abrasive, it is OK to perform if your hair is relaxed or otherwise chemically processed.  If your hair is virgin, colored, highlighted, kinky, curly or even wavy this process may benefit you.

Anything else I should know?

This process should NOT be performed if you are pregnant.

This is not a permanent process, & will need to be redone when new growth becomes evident, please allot expenses accordingly.

Do NOT go in any body of water until 4 days after this process, or apply gels, mousses, or sprays.

DO wear your hair straight down for the first 4 days. No ponytails, clips, barrettes, etc.

DO blow dry or flat iron if you notice crinkling or if you slept against the hair grain.

DO purchase a silk scarf to sleep in, as well as a sulfate free shampoo (sodium chloride)

Do NOT sweat/exercise for the initial 3-4 days

Warnings

Formaldehyde can be toxic when in percentages higher than 2%. It can cause nausea, skin irritation, & long term cancer threats.  The most used system, Chocolate, contains formaldehyde. If you are looking for a formaldehyde free formula you could look into Brazilian Blowout products. (www.brazilianblowout.com)

www.Braziliankeratin.com is a formaldehyde free formula that you can actually use at home, for us divas that require a more personal experience. Do it alone, or order a few & call over some friends.

Pros for African American Women

• It is much easier to blow dry your hair
• It is manageable
• The hair does not break and can help repair damaged hair

Cons for African American Women

• It stinks if you workout often or sweat
• It is not a complete relaxer so the hair does not stay straight if your hair was not relaxed previously
• If you want it to stay wavy or curly, it can be very frizzy

First things first, let’s discuss what a relaxer is.

Relaxing, or lanthionization is the process by which the hair’s curl pattern is chemically relaxed.  The relaxing agent is usually a strong alkali, or ammonium thiogylcolate (lye or perm salt). Over-processing the hair can lead to problems such as brittleness, breakage & in extreme cases alopecia.

In essence all relaxers do the same thing, however below you will find a list of those that have stood out throughout time (in no particular order).  Please remember to follow all directions when using any relaxer system & invest in a timer. It will guide you in not over processing your hair.  As a rule of thumb, it is always better to roller set the hair with a conditioning setting lotion as opposed to hand-drying the hair which involves excessive pulling & heat.

Mizani – Pay close attention to time, this system is fast acting.

Elasta Qp- The pre-relaxer treatment soothes hair & sets the base for a great relaxer. This relaxer also has the option of Lye or No-Lye.

Hawaiian Silky – Gentle, yet effective

Motions – Purchase the accompanying deep conditioner for a scalp treat

Dark & Lovely – The leave in conditioner is key to a superb finish.

Olive Oil – The hair lotion in this system will coat hair if you so choose to hand-dry

Dr.Miracle- This 100% recyclable box is filled with goodies to hold you over until next time.

Crème of Nature- Another fast acting system with an excellent post-process conditioner/detangler.

Phytologie- This is probably the most pricey, but has the most effective humectants & conditioners

Optimum – Virtually tingle/burn free

So, along with the best come some of the worst systems.  Fabulaxer & Precise are 2 of the most popular, however these two under process hair, which leads to leaving the relaxer in too long.  This of course leads to breakage, brittle hair & sometimes permanent hair loss.

Happy Relaxing

Hairstyles seems to come in cycles, for both black men and women. The 80′s re-emergance arrived in early 2008. From the Retro Kids repping NYC, many are following behind to renew the 80′s trends with a new millenium twist.

At first, we thought Cassie Ventura was crazy, until a long list of people started following the half shaved bald head. One of my favorites is Dirty Money’s Dawn Richards crop top hair cut. It just fits her.

If you want to join the new wave of hairstyles? Just look some old pictures.

By Ronnie Williams

If you have ever entered a Beauty Supply Store, you may have wondered “If all of these supplies are for professionals only, why should I even bother”?? 

Myth: Perms will only come out successful if you go to a salon.

Truth: Any one well informed and prepared can have a successful perm application.

Are YOU Ready??

-First things first, it is very important to have the right mirror and light set-up. It is crucial that you are able to see the front and back of your head clearly throughout the entire perming process.

- Before you open ANY of the products, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Perform the strand test on yourself. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, even if you have used this product before.

(If your strand test is unsuccessful or an allergy occurs, heal and try a milder formula)

-After a successful strand test, you are ready to apply. Part hair in 4 sections, careful not to scratch the scalp. There should be a perpendicular cross section in the middle of your head. secure the sections away.

-Base the scalp, outside perimeter, neck and ears with an unscented, colorless petroleum jelly. Avoid using greases with natural herbs as they may interact adversely with the chemicals in your perm.

-Mix your contents well. Start your timer, or note the time you put the first drop of perm in your hair. The amount of time you have to apply and smooth varies by product and hair density. Note yours and follow it.

-Start your application from the back of your head, near the nape. Be careful not to get any on the scalp. Focus on the roots only for a touchup.

-Continue your application, working on the back and then moving to the front. Wait until the whole head is done to apply perm to the edges. Once the application is done, go over the head once again, going back to your starting point to smooth hair using the backside of the comb. Note the time.

-Wash perm out completely and apply shampoo. Shampoo hair at least twice. Apply conditioner and gently separate tangles with a wide tooth comb.

-To dry hair, wet wrap and sit under a dryer or blow dry hair with a low heat setting.

-Style and Enjoy.

**Keep hair wrapped in a satin scarf while sleeping to avoid breakage and keep smooth**

**These same directions apply for a relaxer or a texturizer. Tweak your drying methods to suit style needs**

By Ronnie Williams

Japanese Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning is becoming more of a craze than the Geisha. To understand if this process is for you, educate yourself and make an informed decision.

Japanese Straightening is the combination of heat and chemicals to produce permanently straightened hair. The first step in this process is washing the hair. After the hair is washed, the hair is either sprayed or a gel protein is added. Next, a chemical is added to cut the cystine bond in the hair. Once again the hair is rinsed. Following this, the hair is sprayed with a protective protein spray and blow dryed. A heat intensive ironing tool is then utilized to straighten the hair. This tool can reach temperatures up to 180 degrees Celsius (365 degrees Fahrenheit). After the ironing process, the hair is then neutralized and rinsed/conditioned. Finally, a flat iron may be used at the end for optimal straightening.

Read the full story

By Gail Newbold

“I need a deep conditioner” is something that most African American women say whenever they go to the beauty salon. Hair stylists, without asking why, utilize this hair tool because they know while putting in a chemical relaxer the hair needs to stay moisturized. Common knowledge and practices dictates to the hair product user/consumer that chemical relaxers/perms damage the hair due to its tendency to deplete the natural oil and fatty acid of the hair.   The hair on many CR/P users become dry, brittle, thinner, and often time breaks off due to “over processing”. However, these hair conditions are only indicative of a deeper, perhaps irreparable damage being done to the actual structure of African American women’s hair.

But In order to comprehend what it is a relaxer/perm does that makes processed hair so susceptible to damage/breakage the consumer must know the structure of hair: Already African American hair is susceptible to breakage due to its structural makeup.   Hair fibers that are tightly coiled are typically shorter, and elliptically take up more space, thus making it easier for hair to become knotted, tangled and breakable. African Americans typically have this kind of hair, and due to the “space” the fibers take up, AA hair looks “thick and nappy”.   Even with constant moisturizer and other oils to keep “natural” hair manageable, it is easier to “control” hair that is sleek and straight. But in order to get this sleek appearance, the molecular makeup of the hair must be altered, and in order to do that, one must manipulate what the hair is made of- Protein.

The protein in hair makes it strong, durable, and resistant to stressors that can be found in the air we breathe. Protein also acts as a bonding agent, holding hair together thus staving off the dreaded “breakage” most women try to avoid when chemically altering their hair. Because of its strength, there are but so many chemicals that can break down the molecular make up of protein, one of those chemicals is alkali, and it’s this ingredient that can be found in many relaxers/perms. Consumers usually turn to alkali relaxers formulated with sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide (also known as no-lye relaxers- this is due to its low PH balance of 9) or thioglycote , and it’s the PH balance of the substances used in these products along with other ingredients in the hair treatment that make it so dangerous to the health of your hair.

The purpose of relaxers is to destroy the peptide bond so that the hair strand can “relax” and become straight. And relaxers are some of the most potent alkali chemicals one can use on their hair. In fact, some relaxers have the same PH balance as a bottle of Draino (a product used to clean out sink drains).  These high PH balances make the alkali chemicals potent enough to alter the peptide bonds in the hair, thus destroying the protein and destroying the ability for the hair to hold its self together. This leaves hair dry, brittle, and easily broken off from the root to the tip of each strand. At this point, relaxers seem like the most horrible thing a person could do to their hair. This opinion holds a kernel of truth, but for those of you who refuse to give up the chemically processed look there are some things one should do in order to circumvent immediate damage to your glorious mane.

The first step to ensuring the health of your hair is simple: consult a professional. It is never a good idea to apply a chemical relaxer yourself unless you are a hair care professional. Those who do this as their livelihood are familiar with the chemical process and have a thorough professional knowledge of how long the chemical should stay in, what hair products to use after the chemical application, and how to care for the hair after the process is complete.  HCPs also perform a “strand test”, which gives your beautician an indication of what strength the relaxer should be depending on the current state/health of your hair. It’s also a good way to see if your hair is too damaged to survive any chemical treatment.   But just going to any hair salon is not the wisest decision. It is a better idea to do some reconnaissance by seeking out other customers/clients of your chosen hairdresser, just to make sure they have a good track record of successful hair straightening.

The next few steps include making sure that your hair stays properly moisturized, avoiding over processing and general maintenance. Since Relaxers/Perms deplete natural oils it is imperative that a conditioner be applied to the hair after, and sometimes before (depending on the health of your hair) the chemical process. Cream conditioners, Protein Conditioners and liquid conditioners should be used by your HCP as well as at home. A deep conditioning treatment once or twice a week will help to stave off excessive drying of already sensitive hair.  Hot Oil treatments are also a good way to keep hair moisturized.  It is also important to be vigilant of your chemical process schedule- keeping a calendar with marked off days is a good way to make sure that you do not go in for more chemical treatments than necessary. It is customary and less stressful for your hair if the chemical straightening only happens every 6-8 weeks. If your style can be maintained for an even longer period, that will be much more beneficial for the longevity and health of your hair.  Also try to avoid excessive heat by not over using blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons, etc. These tools can dry out hair, and in conjunction with a chemical, can accelerate the deterioration of hair health.   And just in case you are unsure of how to care for your hair while it’s being chemically treated, it is always a safer bet to ask your HCP any questions you may have.